Step by Step ✨ Crochet, Motif, Crop Blouse Making - Amazing Result!

 


Great — below is a clear, ready-to-use step-by-step written tutorial (US terms) that recreates a motif crop blouse in the style of the ÖRGÜ MÜ DEDİNİZ video. It tells you everything you need: materials, an exact hex/square-ish motif worked in rounds, how many motifs for common sizes, blocking, join-as-you-go + sewn joins, finishing, and yarn estimates. Use this while you crochet — no video needed.

I assume a blocked motif ≈ 10 cm (4") across as a working example. If your motifs end up larger/smaller, I explain how to recalc counts. Ready? Let’s go.

Quick summary

  • What: Lacy motif crop blouse made from joined motifs (front + back panels).

  • Skill: beginner → intermediate (motifs + joining).

  • Tools: US crochet terms in instructions.

  • Example finished bust sizes included for S / M / L.

Materials

  • Yarn: cotton or cotton blend (sport / DK recommended).

  • Hook: 3.0–3.5 mm for sport; 3.5–4.0 mm for DK (use whatever gives you the desired drape).

  • Tapestry needle, scissors, blocking pins/mat, stitch markers (optional).

  • Optional: small buttons, narrow ribbon for tie straps.

Estimate (example)

  • S crop blouse: 250–350 g DK

  • M: 350–450 g DK

  • L: 450–600 g DK
    (We’ll give a more accurate estimate if you tell me your motif weight.)


Abbreviations (US)

  • ch = chain

  • sl st = slip stitch

  • sc = single crochet

  • hdc = half double crochet

  • dc = double crochet

  • tr = treble crochet

  • sp = space

  • st = stitch

  • rep = repeat

  • JAYG = join-as-you-go

1) Make and test one motif (VERY IMPORTANT)

Make one motif first and block it. Measure the motif width across flats (W in cm). I’ll use W ≈ 10 cm in the counts below — if yours is different use the recalculation formulas in Section 6.

2) Motif pattern — worked in rounds (one motif)

This motif is a lacy floral/pineapple-ish hex/square that tiles neatly.

Work loosely so lace stays airy.

Round 1 — center

  1. make a magic ring. ch 3 (counts as dc).

  2. Work 11 dc into ring. (12 dc total). Pull ring closed. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.

Round 2 — anchors

  1. ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 3 — repeat around (12 sc + 12 ch-3 loops).

  2. Join with sl st to first sc.

Round 3 — small petals

  1. Sl st into first ch-3 loop.

  2. Into each loop work: (sc, ch1, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, ch1, sc) — tapered petal. (12 petals)

  3. Join with sl st.

Round 4 — chain arches

  1. ch 1, sc in outer sc of petal, ch 5 — repeat around to make 12 ch-5 arches. Join.

Round 5 — alternating fans/connectors

  1. Into every other ch-5 arch work (sc, ch1, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, ch1, sc) (large fan).

  2. Into the remaining arches work (sc, ch 3, sc) (small connector).

  3. Repeat alternating around. Join.

Round 6 — tall loops row

  1. ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 7, sc in next sc — repeat across (12 ch-7 loops). Join.

Round 7 — top fans

  1. In each ch-7 loop work: (sc, ch2, 3 dc, ch2, sc) — narrow top fan. Join.

Round 8 — create 6 corner points (hex shape)

You have 12 top-fan spaces. Make corners in every 2nd top-fan to get 6 corners.

  1. Into top fan #1 — work (3 dc); into top fan #2 — work (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) (corner); repeat this [3dc][corner] pattern around.

  2. Join with sl st.

Round 9 — tidy sc round (joinable)

  1. ch 1, sc evenly around motif; work 3 sc into each corner ch-3. Join and fasten off.

  2. Block motif to square/hexagon measuring your target W.

Notes: if Round 8 feels confusing, think simply: place a corner every other top fan so you end with six corners evenly spaced.


3) How many motifs do you need (S / M / L example)

Using blocked motif width W = 10 cm as example.

Decide finished bust (with ease) and crop height in motifs (rows). Example finished bust targets:

  • S ≈ 86 cm (34")

  • M ≈ 96 cm (38")

  • L ≈ 106 cm (42")

Calculate motifs across (full width) = finished bust ÷ W. We usually split front/back.

Example layouts (common crop length ~ 18–22 cm → 2 rows if W=10 cm; 3 rows gives a longer crop):

Small (S) — modest crop

  • motifs across full chest ≈ 86 / 10 ≈ 8.6 → use 9 motifs across total (4 front + 5 back or 4+4 with center seam; easier: front = 4, back = 5).

  • rows (height) = 2 rows → front panel = 4 × 2 = 8 motifs, back panel = 5 × 2 = 10 motifs.

  • total motifs ≈ 18, plus 2–4 extras for straps/adjustments → ~20 motifs.

Medium (M)

  • across ≈ 96 / 10 ≈ 9.6 → use 10 motifs across (front 5, back 5).

  • rows = 2 → front = 5 × 2 = 10, back = 5 × 2 = 10 → total 20 + extras → ~22–24 motifs.

Large (L)

  • across ≈ 106 / 10 ≈ 10.6 → use 11 motifs across (front 5 + back 6).

  • rows = 2–3 depending on desired crop length (2 rows = short crop; 3 rows = longer).

  • If 2 rows: front 5×2=10 + back 6×2=12 → 22 motifs (+ extras). If you want more length use 3 rows: 5×3 + 6×3 = 33 motifs.

⚠️ If your blocked motif W ≠ 10 cm, use this formula:

  • motifs_across_total = round(finished_bust_cm / W)

  • front_motifs = round(motifs_across_total / 2)

  • rows = round(desired_height_cm / W)

  • total motifs = motifs_across_total × rows (then split into front/back)

4) Join motifs — options

Recommended: Join-As-You-Go (JAYG)

Join on the final sc round (Round 9):

JAYG quick script (where joining happens):

  • On the new motif’s Round 9 when you come to a side that will touch a finished neighbor:

    1. Instead of plain sc in that stitch, do: sc in your motif st, ch 1, sl st into the corresponding sc (or corner sc) of the finished motif, ch 1.

    2. Continue your sc round. For corners that meet two neighbors, sl st into both neighbors’ corner ch-3 spaces symmetrically.

  • Work the first row left to right; for the second row, join each new motif to the motif above and the one to the left as you go.

Tips:

  • Pin neighbors before joining to make alignment precise.

  • If seams feel tight, make the sl st joins looser or use ch-2 instead of ch-1 for more slack.

Alternative: Sew after blocking

  • Block all motifs. Lay them on the blocking mat in the layout. Use a tapestry needle and matching yarn to mattress stitch through back loops only for a flatter seam. Whipstitch is acceptable but bulkier.


5) Assembly: panels → shoulders → sides → straps

  1. Join motifs into two panels (front left + front right OR front single + back) according to your layout. Many makers do front-left + front-right (mirror) and one back panel. For simplicity I recommend: make one front panel and one back panel then seam center front if needed.

  2. Shoulders: join top row motifs of front & back, but leave a neck opening centered. For example leave 2 motif widths at top center open (or whatever neck width you prefer). Pin and try on before finalizing.

  3. Sides: join side seams from hem up to where you want the armhole to be, typically leaving ~10–15 cm free (one motif height or so) for a cap sleeve or armhole opening.

  4. Straps / sleeves:

    • Straps: chain a long strap (e.g., ch 60–80), fold and sc to make a flat strap, attach under shoulder motifs and tie or sew.

    • Short cap sleeve: add 1 motif row around the armhole and sew in.

    • No sleeve: leave as a sleeveless crop.

6) Edging & finishing

Neck + armhole band

  • Pick up stitches around opening: sc evenly for 1 round; in corners place 3 sc.

  • Optional next round: shell scallop skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 2, sc for feminine edge.

Bottom hem

  • Add one sc round for stability, then 1 shell round for decoration or leave raw if you like the motif edge.

Final block

  • Block assembled blouse to final measurements to even seams and open lace.

7) Yarn estimate method (accurate)

  1. Crochet one motif and weigh it (in grams).

  2. Multiply weight per motif × total motifs needed.

  3. Add ~10–15% for joining, edgings, straps. That gives grams of yarn to buy.

Example: one motif weighs 10 g, you need 22 motifs → 220 g + 15% ≈ 253 g → buy 300 g to be safe.


8) Troubleshooting & tips

  • Motifs vary in size: block every motif to same dimensions. If some remain small add an extra sc round to enlarge them.

  • Seams pucker: join more loosely or use JAYG but slip-stitch more gently. Sewing with mattress stitch through back loops only often gives the flattest seam.

  • Neck too narrow: unseam shoulders and leave more motifs open at center before re-joining.

  • Want more coverage: add another motif row at the bottom or increase motif size (larger hook/yarn).

  • Edges curling: add a sc stabilizer round before decorative scallops.

9) Quick stitch cheat-sheet (for reference)

  • R1: magic ring → 12 dc.

  • R2: sc, ch3 anchors.

  • R3: (sc, ch1, hdc, 3dc, hdc, ch1, sc) in each loop (12 petals).

  • R4: sc, ch5 arches.

  • R5: alternate (big fan) / (sc,ch3,sc).

  • R6: ch7 loops.

  • R7: (sc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, sc) in loops.

  • R8: [3dc][corner (3dc,ch3,3dc)] every other top to make 6 corners.

  • R9: sc round (3 sc in corners) — block.

Video: 


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