Triangle Shawl — Top-Down Shell & Arch Pattern

(Top-down, grows on both edges and at the centre spine; lacy, drapey, beginner-friendly)

Finished size (sample): about 150 cm wingspan × 75 cm depth (after blocking), worked in DK yarn and 1.00 mm hook.
You can scale by changing yarn weight + hook or stopping sooner / working more repeats.

Materials

Yarn: DK / light worsted (approx. 400–600 g depending on final size)
Hook: 1.00 mm (or size to get desired drape)
Tapestry needle, scissors, blocking pins / mats
Stitch marker (optional) for centre spine

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble (UK treble = US tr; not required unless you want taller shells)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st = stitch
rep = repeat
RS = right side

Pattern notes / structure (how it works)

This is a top-down triangle shawl worked flat in rows (you will turn at the end of each row).
Start at the top centre and increase each row by adding stitches at both outer edges and at the centre (the centre is a ch-2 turning space).
The pattern repeat is a combination of shells (5 dc fan) and chain arches; the shells give the lacy petals, arches give openwork and height.
Every row begins and ends with a spacer to keep edges neat; the centre ch-2 space is where the shawl increases (produce a symmetrical triangle).

Stitch definitions used here

5-dc shell (fan): (5 dc) all worked into one space
V-stitch (optional): (dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch or space — we'll use V-st only as a helper if you want.

Worked example — exact step-by-step (top centre to edge)

Starting (Row 1 — the small top point)

Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a small ring.
Work into that ring: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). This creates the top little triangle point with a ch-2 centre space.
- Mark the centre ch-2 with a stitch marker if you like (this helps locate the centre for every row).
Turn. (Do not join; we work rows back and forth.)

Notes: The (3dc, ch2, 3dc) can be considered a starter "shell corner". From Row 2 onward the shawl grows by building shells into chain spaces and adding shells at the sides.

Row 2

Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 2 dc of the group — you will now be across the first half-shell to the centre.
At centre: ch 2, dc in the top of the first half-shell on the other side so you have symmetry (see pattern below for a general rule).
Continue working shells/arcs across the side: ch 1, 5 dc (into the ch-1 / ch-2 space where appropriate) — these are the shells that will form the fan pattern.
Finish row with dc into the last stitches (so the row edges look tidy). Turn.

This row is where you first place single 5-dc shells into the newly available chain spaces. It sets up the pattern.

From Row 3 onward — the repeat (clear and consistent)

From now on you will follow the same logic each row; below is the explicit repeat you can use every row.

Row structure (every row):

Ch 3 (counts as first dc).
Work 2 dc into the first available stitch/space at the left edge to anchor the row edge (this keeps the outer edge tidy).
Work across the left half of the shawl: in each ch-1 space from the row below work a 5-dc shell, separated by ch-1 (shell, ch-1, shell...).
When you reach the centre ch-2 space from the row below, work: ch 2 (this is the centre increase), then 1 dc into the same centre space. (That ch-2 keeps a little gap that is the centre spine.)
Continue the mirror of the left half on the right: in each ch-1 space work ch-1, 5-dc shell.
At the right outer edge work 2 dc to mirror the left edge, then finish with dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn.

Important concrete wording you can follow each row:

ch 3, 2 dc in first st
[shell in each ch-1 space across left side: (5 dc in space, ch 1)]
dc into space before centre, ch 2, dc into space after centre (this creates the centre spine)
[shell in each ch-1 space across right side: ch1, 5 dc in space]
2 dc in last st, dc to finish
Turn.

That rule increases the shawl by two shells per row (one per side) and keeps the centre gap for the spine.

Example with explicit first few rows (worked fully)

I’ll write Rows 1–5 explicitly so you can see how the fabric grows.

Row 1 (setup)

ch 4, sl st to form ring.
(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into ring. Turn.

Row 2

ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 2 dc (so you now formed the top half of the shell), ch 1, 5 dc into the ch-2 space? — at this early step there are no many ch-1 spaces yet. To keep it simple for Row 2 do:
After ch3, ch 1, 5 dc in the ch-2 centre space, ch 1, then dc in last 2 dc of starter group. Turn.

(This builds the first band around the centre.)

Row 3

ch 3, 2 dc in first st.
ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-1 space (there will be two ch-1 spaces across the left side), repeat across left side.
dc in stitch before centre, ch 2, dc in stitch after centre.
Mirror shells on right side: ch 1, 5 dc in each ch-1 space until last st.
2 dc in last st, dc to finish. Turn.

Row 4 and every following row

Repeat Row 3 logic: ch3, 2 dc at edge, shell into every ch-1 space, centre ch2, mirror shells, 2 dc at edge. Turn.

(As you continue you will see clearly defined rows of shells separated by chain arches; the shawl widens by one extra shell per side each row.)

Edge & border (finish after reaching desired size)

When shawl is the depth / wingspan you want, finish with a tidy border. Here are two attractive options.

Simple neat border (3 rounds)

Round 1: With RS facing, join yarn to one corner edge. Work sc evenly around, placing 3 sc in the two extreme corners to keep edges flat. Join with sl st.
Round 2: ch 3, skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell), skip 2 sc, sc in next sc — repeat around. Join.
Round 3 (optional picot): ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 4, sc in center of shell around. Join and fasten off. Block.

Decorative lace scallop (one-row finishing)

Into the chain arches between shells along the edge work sc, ch 3, 7 dc, ch 3, sc to create large scallops. Pin and block for dramatic effect.

Blocking & care

Wet block the shawl: pin wings and lower edge to rectangles or gentle triangular shape, stretching evenly until the piece sits flat and scallops open.
Let dry completely. This opens the lace and stabilizes the shape.
Care: follow yarn manufacturer's instructions — many DK blends are machine-washable on gentle cycles; block after washing when needed.

Stitch cheats & troubleshooting

If your edges look wavy: make sure you are doing the 2 dc at each outer edge every row (this stabilizes the edge). If still wavy add an extra sc round before the shell border.
If the centre spine gap closes: always work ch 2 at the centre space each row; don’t substitute ch 1 or omit it. The ch-2 is the increase point as well.
If your shell spacing looks off: shells must go into the ch-1 spaces created on the previous row; count carefully on the first few rows until rhythm is memorized.
Want a denser shawl? Replace 5-dc shells with 3-dc shells and use smaller hook.
Want taller shells? Use tr (US tr) or 7-dc shells.

Variations & ideas

Picot edging: add tiny picots (ch3, sl st) across last round for a vintage look.
Striped shawl: change color every 4–6 rows for subtle stripes.
Beaded row: string small beads on your yarn before starting and slide a bead onto the centre dc of some shells as you stitch for sparkle.
Reversible version: work the same shell height on both sides and finish edges with sc for a reversible look.
Make it smaller / larger: stop when desired depth, or increase shells per row by working two small shells next to each other in each ch-1 space (advanced).

Quick pattern cheat-sheet (for memorizing)

Start: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into ring.
Every row: ch 3, 2 dc at edge, *ch1 + 5 dc in each ch-1 space across left side*, dc before centre, ch2, dc after centre, mirror right side, 2 dc at edge, dc to finish.

Search This Blog

crochettt

💎How to Crochet Triangle Shawl Pattern