Handmade Elegance — Crochet Cardigan

Style: open-front lacy cardigan, bottom-up construction, set-in/attached sleeves (no complicated shaping), delicate scallop border.
Skill: intermediate (repeats, shaping, picking up sts)
Suggested yarn: fingering → DK (choose drape you like). Sample uses DK cotton / cotton blend.

Materials

Yarn: DK (light worsted) — see yarn estimates below. Use a soft, drapey yarn for elegant fall.
Hook: 4.0 mm (G) recommended for DK; adjust to match gauge.
Tapestry needle, stitch markers, measuring tape, blocking pins.
Optional: 5–7 small buttons (for a buttoned version) or ribbon/ties.

Sizes & finished measurements (ready-to-wear)

Pattern given for sizes S / M / L / XL. Finished bust (approx, with ~6–8 cm ease):

S: 92 cm (36")
M: 100 cm (39.5")
L: 108 cm (42.5")
XL: 116 cm (45.5")

You’ll make a back panel and two front panels and sleeves (or pick up and work sleeves). The pattern will tell you how to calculate starting chains from your gauge.

Gauge (very important)

Make a 10 × 10 cm swatch in the main lace pattern, blocked.

Target gauge (example): 18 dc (or pattern-stitches) × 12 rows = 10 × 10 cm with 4.0 mm hook in DK.
If your gauge is different, change hook size. The pattern includes formulas to compute chains using your actual gauge.

Abbreviations (US)

ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
sp = space
st = stitch
rep = repeat
RS = right side

Stitch used — Elegant fan & V lace (easy repeat)

This lace repeats over a multiple of 8 + 3 (I chose this because it suits garments nicely). It creates a flowing fan/leaf effect that is lacy but stable.

Repeat (one-row style, two-row repeat):

Row A (fan row): skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st (fan), ch 2, dc in next 2 sts — repeat across.
Row B (anchor row): ch 3, dc in next st; ch 3, V-st (dc, ch1, dc) in center of fan below, ch 3, dc in next 2 dc — repeat across.

You’ll use these two rows repeatedly for body and sleeve panels.

(Full written row instructions appear in the Body section.)

Calculating starting chain

Measure desired half-chest width (half of finished bust measurement). Example for M: half-chest ≈ 50 cm.
From your 10 cm gauge, count stitches per cm: sts_per_cm = (stitches in 10 cm) / 10. Example: 18/10 = 1.8 sts/cm.
Required stitches = half_chest_cm × sts_per_cm. Round to nearest multiple of 8 then add 3 for turning.
Example (M): 50 cm × 1.8 ≈ 90 sts → nearest multiple of 8 = 88 → +3 → ch 91 starting chain.

If you want, tell me your swatch gauge and your desired finished bust and I’ll compute exact chain counts.

Construction overview (bottom-up rectangular panels)

We’ll make: Back panel, Left front, Right front, then join at shoulders, pick up around armholes for sleeves (worked top-down), seam sides, and add a scallop border + optional buttons.

This approach keeps shaping simple and gives a clean drape.

BODY — Panels (Back and Fronts)

1) Back panel

Chain the number needed for the back width: this is full_back_width_in_sts = (half_chest_in_sts × 2) − (front opening sts) if you want button band width subtracted; simpler: make back equal to half bust to be joined with fronts. For plain cardigan: make back equal to the full width across back = half_chest × 2 − (front bands). To avoid complication, make back width = full back measurement in sts (I'll supply example counts below).
Example for size M (using earlier example chain): if each front is 46 cm and back 50 cm etc — but to keep things practical: make back_chain = (full_back_cm × sts_per_cm), rounded to multiple of 8 + 3. (I can compute exact numbers if you give target measurements.)

Work Row 0: foundation dc row (stabilizer)

Row 0: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc into each chain across. Turn.

Main repeat:

Row 1 (fan row): ch 3 (counts as dc), skip 1 st, work 5 dc into next st (fan), ch 2, dc into next 2 sts — repeat across. End with dc in last st. Turn.
Row 2 (anchor row): ch 3, dc in next dc; ch 3, V-st (dc, ch1, dc) into center dc of the 5-dc fan from previous row, ch 3, dc in next 2 dc — repeat across. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1–2 until the back panel reaches the armhole depth + shoulder height you want.

Armhole shaping (optional shallow shaping):

For a neat fit, when you reach desired armhole depth (for adult sizes typically 18–20 cm from underarm), stop. If you prefer small shoulder shaping, work last 2–4 rows decreasing 1–2 pattern repeats at each shoulder (e.g., omit first fan on left side and last fan on right side), but this is optional — a boxier shape is perfectly fine for boho cardigans.

Height example (body length):

For a hip-length cardigan: work 54–60 cm from hem to shoulder (adjust to taste). For a shorter jacket: 48 cm.

Fasten off and block flat.

2) Front panels (make 2, mirror)

Each front will be half the chest width plus band allowance.

Chain: compute front width in sts (same method as back but half of total minus any band width). Make chain as multiple of 8 + 3.

Work the same Rows 1–2 repeat until panel measures same height as back.

Front band allowance: if you want a built-in button band, add 4–6 cm extra at the front edges or plan to pick up stitches for band later. I recommend adding +6 chains on the front edge (or simply pick up stitches after assembly to make a neat band).

Make sure both front panels are identical and mirror each other (if your stitch has directional features, ensure left versus right alignment).

JOINING shoulders

Place front panels RS to RS on top of back panel so shoulders align. Use mattress stitch or single crochet seam:

Mark shoulder width — typical shoulder seam = 10–12 cm (adult small → ~11 cm, medium → 12 cm, larger → 13 cm). Align and pin.
Sew shoulder seams with tapestry needle using a neat mattress stitch (in back loops only) for an invisible join, or sc across to make a decorative ridge.

SLEEVES — Set-in by pickup (top-down sleeve)

We’ll pick up around armhole and work sleeves downward in the round.

Option A — Circular sleeve (seamless)

With RS facing, using a 4.0 mm hook, join yarn at underarm seam, pick up even number of sts around armhole edge (pick up 1 sc into every row/space — aim for approx 70–90% of armhole measurement × sts_per_cm). Example: armhole circumference 44 cm × 1.8 sts/cm ≈ 79 sts — round to nearest even number that fits the pattern repeat multiple (8 + 0 maybe). If needed, adjust by inserting extra sc at seam.
Join in a round with sl st, then work rounds of mesh/lace to match body:

Sleeve repeat (worked in rounds, adapt pattern to circular):

Round S1 (fan round adapted): ch3 (counts as first dc in round), skip next st, 5 dc in next st, ch 2, dc in next 2 sts — repeat around. Because we are working in the round, ensure repeats align; if the round doesn't match perfectly, add or subtract a dc before the round to make the repeat fit.
Round S2 (anchor round adapted): ch3, dc in next st; ch 3, V-st into center of fan below (dc, ch1, dc), ch 3, dc in next 2 dc — repeat.

Repeat rounds until sleeve length desired (short sleeve 15–18 cm, 3/4 40–45 cm, full length 56–58 cm). For tapered sleeve, every 6–8 rounds decrease 4 sts evenly (dc2tog or skip small spaces) until cuff width is comfortable.

Finish cuff:

Work 2–3 rounds of sc for a neat cuff or 1 round sc + 1 round shell (picot) for delicate finish. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Option B — Sewn sleeve (flat)
Crochet a rectangle for sleeve using same stitch pattern, seam one side, and sew into armhole. This is simpler but creates seam.

SIDE SEAMS

With RS together, seam side panels from hem up to underarm (use mattress stitch) leaving the sleeve opening you used for sleeve pick up. Weave in ends.

NECKLINE & FRONT BAND

Pick up stitches along front edges and neckline and work a neat band:

Band (recommended):

Join yarn at bottom of right front edge. Work 1 round sc evenly along front edge, around neck, and along left front edge. Place 3 sc in any corner/curve for smoothness. Join.
Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), skip 1 sc, dc in next sc or for a decorative edge do skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell), skip 2 sc, sc in next sc for scalloped band. Repeat one or two rounds as desired.
If you want buttons: Mark button placement on right band, make small button loops on left band (chain 3–5 and sl st to make a loop), or create buttonholes by skipping a few stitches while banding. Attach buttons securely.

HEM & EDGING

Finish the cardigan hem with a scallop shell border for elegance:

With RS facing, join yarn at a bottom corner. Work 1 round sc evenly around hem and front edges (3 sc in corners).
Shell round: skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc all the way round.
Optional picot finish round: sc in first dc, ch 3, sl st in same sc at intervals. Fasten off and weave ends. Block.

Blocking & Finishing

Lightly steam or wet-block the whole cardigan pinned to the final measurements to open lace and even edges.
Add buttons, sew securely. Tidy ends.

Yarn & amount estimates (approx)

These are approximate; make a gauge swatch and weigh your swatch for best accuracy.

Size S: 800–1000 g DK (approx 6–8 skeins of 100 g).
Size M: 1000–1200 g.
Size L: 1200–1400 g.
Size XL: 1400–1600 g.

(If you use fingering weight, expect to use 1.5× the yardage listed.)

Short worked example — Size M (numbers example)

If your gauge = 18 sts / 10 cm and desired half-chest = 50 cm:

Sts_per_cm = 18 / 10 = 1.8
Stitches required for half chest = 50 × 1.8 = 90 sts → nearest multiple of 8 = 88 + 3 = ch 91 for each front half (if you prefer each front to be 91 sts). Back would be about 2 × 91 = 182 chains (or better: do back separately as 182 + 3 turning chain). Adjust for button band.

Work Rows 1–2 repeat until desired length (for M, ~56 cm). Use counts above to compute sleeve pickup.

If you want I’ll compute exact chain numbers and a row plan for a specific bust measurement using your real swatch numbers — tell me your stitches per 10 cm and desired finished bust (cm or in) and I’ll do the math and give you an exact chain count and row numbers.

Variations & styling ideas

Make it cropped by shortening body rows.
Add bell sleeves: increase every few rounds before cuff.
Work the cardigan in stripes — change color every 6–8 rows for a modern look.
Make it buttonless and add a waist tie.
Replace scallop border with a simple lacy fringe for boho vibe.

Troubleshooting tips

Edges ripple: add a sc stabilizing round before decorative shells.
Panels differ slightly in size: block both panels to equal dimensions before seaming.
Lace holes not lining up: ensure you place the V-st in the center dc of the fan below (use stitch markers for first few repeats).
Sleeves bagging: decrease a little in sleeve rounds for a tapered fit.

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