🌟Crochet Hexagon Motif❗️How to Make the Most Beautiful Pattern of the Last Days

 

Crochet Hexagon Motif — Step-by-step (US terms)

A faithful, easy-to-follow written recreation in the style of “Crochet with Nese.” This makes a lacy hexagon that tiles neatly and can be used for blankets, cardigans, crop tops, runners, etc.

Make one test motif first and block it — then use the measured size to plan projects and yarn.

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What you’ll make

A lacy hexagon motif with a floral/mandala center that is squared into a six-sided tile (6 corner groups). The motif is worked in rounds, finishes flat, and joins easily to neighbors with a join-as-you-go (JAYG) method.

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Materials & tools

• Yarn: fingering / sport / DK — cotton / cotton-blend recommended for crisp lace or acrylic blend for warmth.

• Hook: choose to suit yarn (sample suggestions: thread/#10 → 1.5–1.75 mm; fingering → 2.5–3.5 mm; DK → 3.5–4.5 mm). Use a hook that gives an open but neat lace.

• Tapestry needle, scissors, blocking pins & mat.

• Optional: stitch markers, small beads (not required).

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Abbreviations (US)

• ch = chain

• sl st = slip stitch

• sc = single crochet

• hdc = half double crochet

• dc = double crochet

• tr = treble crochet

• sp = space

• st = stitch

• rep = repeat

• RS = right side

• JAYG = join-as-you-go

Notes before you begin

• Work loosely for lace; block to open the pattern.

• The motif has 12 petal/fan positions in outer rounds which are grouped into 6 corner groups to make a hexagon. If your corners look uneven, move which fan becomes a corner so 6 corners are evenly spaced. Tweaking on the first motif is normal.

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Round-by-round pattern

R1 — Center ring

1. Make a magic ring. ch 3 (counts as dc).

2. Work 11 dc into ring — 12 dc total including ch-3.

3. Pull the ring tight. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (You may leave unjoined and work in continuous rounds if you prefer; joining gives neat gaps.)

R2 — Anchor loops

1. ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 3 — repeat around (12 sc and 12 ch-3 loops).

2. Join with sl st to first sc.

R3 — Small petals (first fan row)

1. sl st into first ch-3 loop.

2. In each loop work: (sc, ch1, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, ch1, sc) — one tapered petal per loop. (12 petals)

3. Join with sl st.

R4 — Connector arches

1. ch 1, sc in outer sc of petal, ch 5 — repeat around to make 12 ch-5 arches.

2. Join with sl st.

R5 — Large fans / pineapple bodies (alternate)

1. Into every other ch-5 arch work: (sc, ch1, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, ch1, sc) (large fan).

2. Into the remaining arches work: (sc, ch3, sc) (small connector).

3. Repeat around. Join.

R6 — Tall loop row

1. ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 7, sc in next sc — repeat around to create 12 ch-7 loops.

2. Join.

R7 — Top fans

1. In each ch-7 loop work: (sc, ch2, 3 dc, ch2, sc) — narrow top fans. (12 tops)

2. Join.

R8 — Make 6 corners (shape to hexagon)
We have 12 top fans; we need 6 corner groups evenly spaced. Place a corner in every 2nd top fan:

1. ch 3 (counts as dc). Work 3 dc in next top-fan space; (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) into the next top-fan space to form a corner; repeat — effectively the simplest rule is [corner][3dc][corner][3dc]… around so 6 corners are created.

2. After a full revolution you’ll have 6 corner ch-3 spaces. Join with sl st.

If your first pass looks off, shift the pattern so corners are on top fans 1,3,5,7,9,11 — that places six corners evenly.

R9 — Tidy sc round (join round)

1. ch 1, sc evenly around motif; place 3 sc in each corner ch-3 to round them.

2. Join with sl st. Keep yarn attached if you plan to join-as-you-go.

Optional R10 — Decorative scallop

• If you want a cute scalloped outer edge: skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell), skip 2 sc, sc in next sc — repeat around. Join & fasten off. Block motif.

Blocking

• Pin motif to your desired dimensions and wet-block (or use steam). A blocked motif shows the lace and the hex corners clearly and makes joining easy.

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Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) — step-by-step (recommended)

Best to join during R9 (sc join round). This method gives flat, tidy joins with minimal sewing.

Rules / script to replace some scs on R9
When you are making a new motif and you need to attach it to an already finished neighbor:

• Instead of doing a plain sc, do:
  sc in your motif stitch, ch 1, sl st into the corresponding sc (or corner sc) of the finished neighbor, ch 1

• For an edge join (one neighbor): use the single ch 1 / sl st join between scs.

• For a corner that touches two finished neighbors, do (gently):
  sc in your motif, ch 1, sl st into neighbor A's corner ch-3, ch 1, sl st into neighbor B's corner ch-3, ch 1
  — OR do two separate single sl sts spaced by ch-1 so corner ch-3 remains open and not pulled flat.

Order to join a blanket/panel

1. Make first row of motifs fully (no joins) or make first motif and join others left → right.

2. Start the second row: for each new motif, during R9 join to motif above at the proper points and to the left neighbor if present.

3. Continue row by row. Pin motifs to align points before joining if helpful.

Tips

• If joins are too tight, use ch 2 instead of ch 1.

• If a seam feels bulky, use a sl st into a ch-space rather than into a dense sc — choose the most open place in the neighbor that lines up visually.

• Work slowly on corner joins — they determine how flat the motif grid will lie.

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Alternative join — sew after blocking

• Block all motifs to identical size and pin into the layout.

• Use tapestry needle + yarn and mattress stitch through back loops only for the flattest seam. Whipstitch is quicker but thicker.

Project planning & sizing

1. Make one motif and block it. Measure its width across flats (W cm).

2. Decide finished piece size (width × height in cm).

3. motifs_across = round(width_cm / W)
motifs_down = round(height_cm / W)
total_motifs = motifs_across × motifs_down

Example (approx)
If W ≈ 11 cm: for a 110 × 132 cm blanket → across = 10, down = 12 → total = 120 motifs.

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Yarn estimate (accurate method)

1. Make and block one motif. Weigh it in grams (g_per_motif).

2. total_grams ≈ g_per_motif × total_motifs + 10–15% (joins & border).

3. Convert to skeins using label weight.

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Edging ideas

• Simple stabilizer: sc around whole assembled piece (3 sc in corners). Then shell scallop round.

• Delicate scallop: sc round → skip 2 sc, 5 dc, skip 2 sc, sc → repeat.

• Wide boho scallop: make large shells (9–11 dc) and add picot or tiny chains at peaks.

• Ribbed border (cozy): sc or hdc round then a few rounds of BLO hdc for ribbing.

Variations & uses

• Blanket/Throw: Make many motifs and join into a rectangle, add wide scallop border.

• Cardigan / Blouse: Join into front/back panels; leave neck opening and add bands; make sleeves by picking up or adding motif strips.

• Shawl / Wrap: Use 3 or 5 large motifs in a triangular or crescent layout; add fringe.

• Table runner / placemats: join a narrow row of motifs and add a neat picot or shell border.

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Troubleshooting

• Hex corners lopsided: ensure exactly six corners; move which top fan is corner so they're evenly spaced (place corner in every 2nd top fan).

• Motifs slightly different sizes: block all to same size; add 1 sc round to smaller ones if needed.

• Seams pucker: loosen JAYG tension (ch 2), or sew with mattress stitch for flatter seam.

• Edges ripple: add stabilizer sc round before scallops.

• Pattern counts drifting: recount petals / top fans and ensure R5 alternation (fan / connector) is consistent.

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Quick reference (cheat-sheet)

• R1: magic ring → 12 dc.

• R2: sc, ch-3 anchors (×12).

• R3: (sc, ch1, hdc, 3dc, hdc, ch1, sc) ×12 (petals).

• R4: sc, ch5 arches (×12).

• R5: alternate big fan (5dc) / connector (sc,ch3,sc).

• R6: ch7 loops (×12).

• R7: (sc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, sc) ×12.

• R8: corners — make 6 corner ch3 groups (place in every 2nd top fan).

• R9: sc round (3 sc in corners) — join here (JAYG). Optional R10: scallops.

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