Snowflake Granny Square Blanket – The Perfect Cozy Winter & Christmas Crochet Blanket!

 


Snowflake Granny Square Blanket — Step-by-Step Tutorial

Skill: intermediate (basic crochet + simple puff/tr clusters)
Finished motif size (sample): ~14 cm / 5½" square (using worsted weight yarn + 4.0 mm hook) — change yarn/hook for different scale.

What you’ll make: many snowflake-center granny squares joined into a blanket and finished with a scallop border.

Materials

  • Main color (MC) — e.g., off-white or pale blue (for snowflakes / background)

  • Contrast color (CC) — optional (for borders or applied detail)

  • Yarn weight (sample): worsted/aran (4) — adjust hook for drape. You can also use DK or cotton thread for lacy smaller squares.

  • Crochet hook: 4.0 mm (G) recommended for worsted sample (use hook appropriate to your yarn to get desired size)

  • Tapestry needle, scissors, blocking pins & mat

  • Stitch markers (optional)

Abbreviations (US)

  • ch = chain

  • sl st = slip stitch

  • sc = single crochet

  • hdc = half double crochet

  • dc = double crochet

  • tr = treble (UK: treble = US tr)

  • sp = space

  • st = stitch

  • [] = work instructions in brackets as directed


Design notes (pattern logic)

  • The snowflake is worked in the center as fan/petal points, made from treble fans (gives tall points).

  • There are 12 snowflake points around the center; we convert these 12 points into a square by grouping them 3 per side (12 → 4 sides).

  • The square is then grown outward with standard granny-style rounds, adding corners (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) so motifs block squarely and join easily.

Gauge / test

Make one motif and block it to confirm size. Change hook if you want bigger/smaller motifs. Use your test square to calculate how many motifs you’ll need for the finished blanket.

MOTIF — one Snowflake Granny Square

(Each motif = 7 rounds in this recipe: center snowflake rounds then square rounds + one finishing round.)

Rnd 1 — Magic ring center

  1. Make a magic ring (or ch 4 and join to form a ring).

  2. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc into the ring — 12 dc total including starting ch-3.

  3. Pull ring tight. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.

Result: small round of 12 dc (foundation for 12 snowflake points).


Rnd 2 — Loops for snowflake arms

  1. Ch 1. Sc in next dc, ch 3.

  2. Repeat sc, ch 3 around — you should have 12 sc and 12 ch-3 loops.

  3. Join with sl st to first sc.

The ch-3 loops define each snowflake arm placement.

Rnd 3 — Snowflake arms (petal/fan)

We build tall fans that look like snowflake points.

  1. Sl st into first ch-3 loop to position.

  2. In the ch-3 loop work: sc, ch 2, (3 tr), ch 2, sc — that is: sc into loop, chain 2, 3 treble crochet in the same loop, chain 2, sc into loop.

    • The 3-tr fan makes the pointed arm; the ch-2 on both sides opens it.

  3. Repeat sc, ch2, 3 tr, ch2, sc into every ch-3 loop around (12 times).

  4. Join with sl st to first sc.

Result: 12 tall snowflake arms rising from the center.

Rnd 4 — Small stabilizing round (bridge loops)

  1. Ch 1. Sc in the first sc (the base of the first arm).

  2. Ch 4, sc in next sc (base of next arm). Repeat around — you’ll make 12 ch-4 spaces between the arm bases.

  3. Join with sl st to first sc.

These ch-4 loops are the anchors we’ll use to form the square.


Rnd 5 — Turn circle into square (make corners)

We convert 12 ch-4 loops into 4 sides (3 loops per side) and create corners.

Principle: Work 3 dc into each ch-4 loop to build side shells. At every 3rd loop place a corner cluster instead.

  1. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc in same ch-4 loop → you have 3 dc in that loop.

  2. Move to the next ch-4 loop: work 3 dc.

  3. Move to the third ch-4 loop of the trio (i.e., after 2 loops): instead of 3 dc only, work a corner: (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) into that third ch-4 loop. (This corner will turn to next side.)

  4. Continue the pattern: [3 dc in loop, 3 dc in loop, (3 dc, ch3, 3 dc) in loop] — repeat this sequence 4 times total, which uses all 12 ch-4 loops and produces 4 corners.

  5. Join with sl st to top of starting ch-3.

You will now see a rough squared outline — each side has two regular 3-dc groups and a corner cluster.

Rnd 6 — Build the square side rows (even and tidy)

  1. Ch 1 (does not count). Work sc in the top of each dc across the sides and 3 sc in each corner ch-3 space (this evens edges and readies the motif for larger rounds).

    • Practically: sc in each dc across side groups; when you reach the corner ch-3, work (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1, sc) or simply 3 sc (your choice) to keep corner fullness.

  2. Join with sl st.

This round flattens the motif into a true square and stabilizes the corners.

Rnd 7 — Outer decorative round (shell/arch)

This round makes an attractive outer edge and gives a consistent join round for JAYG or whipstitch.

  1. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Skip the next sc, in next sc work 5 dc (shell), skip next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat across each side.

  2. In corner sc clusters, work (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) to keep corners full.

  3. Join and fasten off. Weave in ends.

Optional variant: instead of 5-dc shells, do 3-dc shells for a subtler look.


You’ve finished one Snowflake Granny Square. Make as many as you need for your blanket.

LAYOUT & SIZING

  • Count your motif size after blocking. Example: if one motif = 14 cm (5½"), a 5 × 6 layout = 70 × 84 cm (27½" × 33").

  • Plan layout to fit bed/table/sofa: common blanket sizes (approx):

    • Baby: ~6 × 8 motifs (depending on motif size)

    • Throw/lapghan: ~7 × 9 or 8 × 10 motifs

    • Twin/Full/Queen need many more motifs — use motif size × number to plan.

JOINING MOTIFS

You can join motifs after all are made (sewing/joining) or join-as-you-go (JAYG) on the final round.

Option A — Join-as-you-go (recommended for neat joins)

When you make Rnd 7 (outer round) of a new motif and you approach a side that touches an existing motif:

  1. Instead of completing the shell normally for a stitch that aligns with a neighbor motif, work: sc in your new motif's st, ch 1, sl st through the corresponding st or chain space on the finished motif, ch 1 then continue the rest of the shell.

  2. Use this method to attach one side at a time; it creates a neat, slightly lacy seam.

This method slightly changes the stitch count where motifs meet and creates a continuous fabric with fewer ends.

Option B — Sew / Whipstitch after blocking

  1. Block all motifs flat.

  2. Place motifs right sides up in your layout.

  3. With tapestry needle and matching yarn, whipstitch through back loops only, or use mattress stitch for invisible seam.

  4. Join all rows, then join rows together.

Both methods look lovely — JAYG reduces sewing.


BORDER (sample cozy scallop border)

Work the border after all motifs are joined and blanket is blocked.

Border Round 1 — even single crochet

Join MC at any point:

  • Round 1: sc evenly all around, working 3 sc in each motif corner to keep edges flat. Join with sl st.

Border Round 2 — shell row

  • Ch 3 (counts dc), skip 2 sc, work 5 dc in next sc (shell), skip 2 sc, sc in next sc. Repeat all around. In corners: work shell into corner cluster so corner remains full. Join.

Border Round 3 — arch row

  • Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 4, sc in center dc of shell around. Join.

Border Round 4 — big scallops

  • In each ch-4 arch work: (sc, ch 3, 7 dc, ch 3, sc) to make large scallops. Join.

Border Round 5 — picot tidy (optional)

  • Into each scallop work: sc, (ch 3, sl st in ch-3 to form picot), sc for tiny decorative points. Join and fasten off. Weave in ends.

Block border gently to shape scallops.

BLOCKING

  • Wet-block the entire blanket (or steam) to open the snowflake arms and flatten squares.

  • Pin each corner and scallop outward to get crisp snowflake points and uniform squares. Let dry fully.

YARN & AMOUNT ESTIMATES (approx)

(NOTE: yarn needs vary a lot — make one blocked motif, weigh it, then multiply for best accuracy. These are rough guides.)

  • Sample motif (worsted, 4.0 mm hook): ~15–20 g per motif.

  • For a 7 × 9 throw (63 motifs) → ~63 × 18 g ≈ 1134 g → about 12 × 100 g skeins of main color.

  • For baby blanket (6 × 8 = 48 motifs) → ~48 × 18 g ≈ 864 g → 9–10 skeins.

  • Border + extra = add ~1–2 skeins.
    Always swatch one motif and weigh to calculate.


TROUBLESHOOTING & TIPS

  • Points not sharp: use a smaller hook on the snowflake rounds or block more aggressively (pin points outward).

  • Squares uneven: block each square before joining. Blocking evens small differences and makes joining easier.

  • Blanket puckers at joins: try joining in back loops only, or switch to join-as-you-go to reduce bulk.

  • Want fewer arms (8 instead of 12)? Use 8 dc in Round 1 and proceed with the same logic (group them 2 per side to make a square). Pattern would need small adjustments.

Variations & ideas

  • Make two colors: snowflake (white) on a colored background or vice versa.

  • Add beads at the tip of each arm (seed beads sewn on after blocking) for sparkle.

  • Make a center medallion then surround with plain granny rounds for an oversized snowflake center.

  • Use fingering/sport yarn + small hook for a delicate lace heirloom throw.

Quick reference — Motif cheat sheet

  1. Rnd1: Magic ring → 12 dc.

  2. Rnd2: sc, ch3 ×12 (12 loops).

  3. Rnd3: In each ch-3 loop: sc, ch2, (3 tr), ch2, sc (12 arms).

  4. Rnd4: sc in arm bases, ch4, sc ×12 (12 ch4 spaces).

  5. Rnd5: 3 dc per ch4; every 3rd ch4 → corner (3 dc, ch3, 3 dc).

  6. Rnd6: sc around to tidy & stabilize.

  7. Rnd7: shell round (5 dc shells) — finish & fasten off.

Video: 


Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Most Eye-Catching Crochet Pattern 2025 🧶✨ Trendy & Easy Tutorial for Beginners

Image
  Materials Needed Worsted-weight yarn (1–2 skeins; choose colors that make the texture pop) Crochet hook (usually around 4 mm to 5 mm—video should specify) Scissors and tapestry needle for finishing Step‑by‑Step Instructions 1. Foundation Chain Start with a comfortable slip knot. Chain a multiple of stitches that fits your desired width. The video likely suggests a specific multiple (e.g., chain 30, 40) for easy pattern repeats. 2. Turn and First Row Work the first row using basic stitches—likely single crochet (sc) or half-double crochet (hdc)—to create a stable base. 3. Establish the Eye-Catching Pattern The tutorial centers around a visually striking repeat—such as alternating textures, openwork motifs, or layered stitches. A common beginner-friendly approach: skip‑1 chains, cluster stitches in gaps, alternating with solid stitches to create pattern depth. 4. Continue the Repeat Pattern Repeat the main pattern across each row, maintaining consiste...
Read more

Crochet Tote Bag with Basic Crochet Stitch Single Crochet Make it Wonderful✨️🎁💕

Image
  Crochet Tote Bag — Step-by-Step (single crochet method) Level: Beginner / easy Finished size (example): ~30 cm wide × 25 cm tall (adjustable) Tools & yarn (suggested) Worsted / aran weight cotton or acrylic yarn (1–2 skeins depending on size). Crochet hook 4.0–5.5 mm (choose hook for comfortable fabric, 4.5 mm is a good starting point). Scissors, tapestry needle, measuring tape. Optional: small amount of contrasting yarn for stripes, and fabric for lining. Abbreviations (US) ch = chain sc = single crochet sl st = slip stitch st(s) = stitch(es) rep = repeat Pattern notes (how I set this recipe up) I provide a practical sample using a foundation chain of 40 (a good medium tote width). Change the chain length to make a wider or narrower bag — keep multiples of 2 for balanced edges. The instructions are intentionally flexible so you can match the video style while customizing size. 1) Make your foundation chain Make a slip knot. Ch...
Read more

Crochet bag tutorial | DIY crochet market bag🌸

Image
🧶 Materials Needed 1 Worsted‑weight yarn (main color + optional accent) 2 Crochet hook  4 mm / G‑6 3 Scissors and tapestry needle Step 1: Start with a Magic Ring Form a loop with your yarn, overlapping it to create a ring. Insert hook into ring, yarn over (YO), pull up a loop. Chain 1 to secure the ring. Step 2: Crochet the Base in the Round Work 8 single crochets (SC) into the magic ring. Pull the tail to close the circle tightly. Slip‑stitch (SL ST) to join the round. Step 3: Increase the Base Round 2 : Chain 1, 2 SC in each stitch around (total: 16 SC). Join with SL ST.  Round 3 : Chain 1, 1 SC in first stitch, 2 SC in next around (total: 24 SC). Join.  Continue increasing in this evenly spaced pattern until your circle reaches the desired bag bottom diameter (video uses ~6 inches / 15 cm). Typically increase every other stitch until size is right. Step 4: Build Up the Sides Once the base is done, stop increasing. Chain 1, th...
Read more