ELEGANT BOUQUETS, PONCHO SHAWL MAKING WITHOUT Plucking VELVET FLOWER MODEL ✔️CROCHET DESIGN SHAWL MAKING✔️
Velvet-Flower Crochet — Step-by-Step Tutorial
Skill: intermediate (repeats, working in rounds, joining motifs)
Finished motif: approx 10–12 cm (4–4.7") depending on yarn & hook.
Project idea: make many motifs, join into a blouse, poncho, or shawl (video shows all uses).
Materials
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Yarn: velvet / chenille / plush yarn for the “kadife” look (or any bulky/soft yarn for similar effect). For a lighter look use DK/cotton.
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Hook: one size recommended for your yarn — for velvet chenille usually 5.0–6.5 mm; adjust to match gauge.
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Tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers.
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Optional: small beads or decorative buttons for centers.
Abbreviations (US)
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ch = chain
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sl st = slip stitch
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sc = single crochet
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hdc = half double crochet
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dc = double crochet
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tr = treble crochet
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sp = space
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st = stitch
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sk = skip
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rep = repeat
Pattern multiple & notes
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Work motifs in rounds from center outward.
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Motif has a beaded-petal / leaf look and is worked continuously so you don’t “cut” threads between petals (matches “koparmadan yapılan” — without tearing/cutting).
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Make a test motif and block lightly (if yarn allows) to measure motif size — use this to plan number of motifs needed for your garment.
MOTIF — Velvet Flower (full written rounds)
The motif below is an accurate, practical recreation of the shape shown in the video: a beaded center, petal rounds, and outer lace edging suitable for joining.
Round 1 — center ring
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Make a magic ring (or ch 4 and join as ring).
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ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc into ring. (12 dc total including ch-3)
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Tighten ring, join with sl st to top of ch-3.
Round 2 — small picot ring (optional sparkle)
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ch 1, sc in next st, ch 3 (picot loop) — repeat around placing sc between picot loops so you have 12 sc + 12 ch-3 loops.
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Join with sl st to first sc.
(If you don’t want picot loops, do plain sc around.)
Round 3 — first petal anchors
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ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4 around (work sc into each dc from Round 1 and create ch-4 loops between) — you will have 12 ch-4 loops.
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Join with sl st.
These ch-4 loops are the anchors for the petals.
Round 4 — petal fans (short fan base)
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Into each ch-4 loop work: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) all into same loop — a tapered fan (small petal).
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Repeat into every loop around (12 petals).
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Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 5 — petal height & texture (build velvet look)
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ch 2 (counts as hdc), turn slightly if needed so petals stand up.
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Working around each petal’s outer edge: sc in outermost sc of petal, ch 2, dc in center dc of petal (the highest point), ch 2, sc in other outer sc — this outlines and raises the petal to give a 3-D velvet petal.
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Repeat for each petal. Join.
Round 6 — leaf connectors (make lace ring)
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ch 1. sc in top of petal base, ch 5 (creates airy loop), sc in next petal base — repeat around to create long arch loops between petals (you should have 12 long arches). Join.
Round 7 — convert circle to square / larger motif (optional for blouse)
If you want motifs to be easily joined as a geometric panel (square/hexagon-ish), add an outer round that creates larger side shells — otherwise keep circular for a round flower panel.
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Decide grouping (if you want to transform 12 petals into 4 sides, group every three petals as one side).
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Work 3 dc into the first arch, then 3 dc into second arch, then into the third arch work (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) to form a corner. Continue this 4 times around so every 3 arches becomes a side and the third is the corner. Join.
Round 8 — decorative outer shell / joining round
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ch 1; sc evenly around the round and place 3 sc in each corner ch-3 space (if you made corners) — this evens the edge.
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Final row: skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell), skip 2 sc, sc in next sc to make shells for a scalloped edge that looks finished and ready for join-as-you-go.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Alternative: One-piece continuous petal method (no cutting)
The video emphasizes koparmadan (without cutting). If you want to absolutely avoid cutting yarn between motifs, work motifs continuously on same skein until you need to change color: carry yarn along WS and hide it under petals as you go; or better, cut once at end of motif and attach new yarn for next motif. The pattern above is written with normal fasten-offs — the petal shaping itself is continuous within the motif (no extra tails when making petals).
Making a Blouse / Poncho / Shawl from motifs
How many motifs?
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Make a test motif, block it, measure width and height.
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Example (video style garment): blouse/poncho built from motifs joined in rows — typical blouse front/back uses 3 motifs across × 4–5 rows per side (adjust by size). A shawl may be 6–8 motifs across × 3–4 rows long.
Layout ideas
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Blouse: join motifs into rectangular panels for front, back and two small motifs for sleeves / shoulders. Seam shoulders and sides; add edging.
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Poncho: arrange motifs in a single rectangle, fold in half and seam one side leaving neck hole, or join into a circular yoke.
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Shawl: join motifs into a triangular or rectangular shape; add long scallop border.
Joining methods
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Join-as-you-go (JAYG) — recommended for neat, lacy joins shown in video:
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On the final outer round of a new motif, when you reach a point that will touch an existing motif, instead of working the full stitch, do: sc (or dc) into your motif, ch 1, sl st into the corresponding stitch/space on the neighbor motif, ch 1, then continue your round. This attaches motifs seamlessly. Use matching stitch counts so joins align.
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Sewing (invisible mattress stitch) — block motifs and sew through back loops only to reduce bulk.
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Slip-stitch join on RS for a flat, decorative seam.
Example join sequence (simple JAYG)
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Make first motif completely.
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Make second motif up to the outer joining round.
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When you reach the first touching point, align motifs and sl st into neighbor’s corresponding space, continue. Join one side completely; then flip and join next side, etc.
Edging & finishing
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Once motifs are joined into your desired shape, add a unified border to smooth edges: 3 rounds recommended:
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Round 1: sc evenly around all outer edges (3 sc in corners)
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Round 2: shell round: skip 2 sc, (5 dc) in next sc, skip 2, sc repeat
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Round 3: picot or tiny shell finish: sc, ch3, sl st in same st every few stitches for delicate points
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Weave in ends carefully; block final garment to shape petals and open lace.
Sizing guidelines (quick)
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Make motif size measurement (blocked) = M cm across.
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To make a small shrug/blouse (XS–S): front panel ~ 3 motifs across × 4 rows = width ≈ 3×M and height ≈ 4×M (adjust for overlap).
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For a poncho: single panel 6×6 motifs folded and seamed as desired.
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For shawl: 6×3 or larger depending on desired coverage.
Tips & troubleshooting
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Petals floppy? Try a smaller hook or add one more outline round to stabilize petals. Plush yarn can be stretchy; blocking helps.
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Motifs vary in size: always block each motif to final size before joining. If motif sizes still vary, adjust outer rounds to even them (add an extra sc round where needed).
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Joins not lining up? Make sure you keep consistent stitch counts on the outer joining round and join in the same corresponding spaces on adjacent motifs. Use stitch markers to mark contact points.
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Avoid fuzz matting: velvet/chenille yarn shows marks from tension; be gentle when blocking and avoid heavy steam — pin and air-dry if possible.
Variations & embellishments
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Add a small bead or button in the center of each flower for sparkle.
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Make alternating motifs in two colors (flower center in contrast color, petals in main color).
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Work outer rounds in a contrasting color to create a lace grid effect.
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For cooler weather, make motifs with wool blends rather than chenille.
Quick Summary / Cheat-sheet
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Round 1: magic ring → 12 dc.
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Round 2: sc + ch loops (12).
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Round 4: petal fans into loops: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc).
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Round 5: outline petals to raise them.
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Round 6: long arches (ch-5 / ch-4) between petals.
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Round 7–8: (optional) convert to square and make scalloped outer joining round.
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Make N motifs, block, join with JAYG or sew, add border, finish.

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