Crochet Round Scrap Rug

 

Crochet Round Scrap Rug — detailed step-by-step tutorial

Quick overview: you’ll make a flat circular rug worked in continuous rounds (or joined rounds) using scrap yarn or fabric strips. Start with a small center (magic ring or ch-4 loop), increase evenly to keep the circle flat, change colors as you wish, add a finishing border, weave ends and optionally attach a non-slip backing. Below is a practical, copy-and-use recipe + tips for troubleshooting and sizing.

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Materials & tools

• Scrap yarn / fabric strips / T-shirt yarn — any leftover yarns or cut fabric strips (for rag rugs: sheets, old T-shirts, etc.). Precut strips ~1–3 cm wide for fabric, joined end-to-end. 

• Crochet hook to suit your material (for worsted scrap yarn use 5–8 mm; for bulky/t-shirt yarn use 8–12 mm).

• Scissors, tape measure, tapestry needle, and optional stitch marker.

• Optional: non-slip rug pad / hot-glue or sewing supplies for backing if rug will sit on a hard floor.

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Abbreviations (US)

• ch = chain

• sl st = slip stitch

• sc = single crochet

• hdc = half-double crochet

• dc = double crochet

• inc = 2 stitches in same stitch

Prep: cutting & joining strips

1. Fabric strips: cut fabric into strips ~1–3 cm wide and 30–80 cm long (length can vary; shorter strips are easier to handle). You can join strips by overlapping and sewing, or tie/whip-stitch ends together to make longer continuous lengths. Pre-stretch strips if fabric shrinks.Yarn scraps: join small skeins with a weaver’s join, square knot, or by carrying tails and weaving them in as you go. Keep join points tidy and stash tails inside stitches to hide them.

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Construction concept (how to keep a flat circle)

To keep the rug flat, use the standard “add 6 sts per round” rule when working in single crochet (when starting from 6 sts). That means typical increase scheme:

• R1 = 6 sc (magic ring)

• R2 = 2 sc in each st → 12 sc

• R3 = sc, inc repeat → 18 sc

• R4 = sc x2, inc → 24 sc
  …and so on. Stop increasing when the circle reaches desired diameter (or slightly smaller if you plan a wide border). If you use taller stitches (hdc or dc), you’ll add the equivalent increases for those stitch heights—same math applies to keep it flat.

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Step-by-step pattern (practical recipe)

Notes: I give two common stitch options. Use whichever feels nicest with your scrap material. Counts shown assume you use single crochet (sc) and start with 6-st center. Gauge/round counts will vary by material and hook — measure as you go.

A — Start the center

1. Make a magic ring (or ch-4 and sl st to make a ring).

2. Round 1: ch 1, work 6 sc into ring. Tighten ring. (Total = 6 sc).
   Alternative: If you prefer a looser center, make 8 sc to avoid a tight hole.

Citation: standard start for rag/round rugs and Pamela’s video center start. 

B — Increase rounds (keep the circle flat)

3. Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (Total 12 sc).

4. Round 3: sc in next stitch, inc (2 sc in next) — repeat around. (Total 18 sc).

5. Round 4: sc in next 2 sts, inc — repeat. (Total 24 sc).

6. Continue this pattern: each round add one more single crochet between increases (Round n total ≈ 6 × n). Keep checking flatness: lay rug flat — if it’s cupping add increases sooner; if it’s ruffling, stop increasing for a round.

C — Changing stitches or speed

• If you want the rug to grow faster use hdc (half-double) or dc — then follow the same increase spacing but be mindful that taller stitches make the circle expand faster vertically (you may need fewer increases). Many rag-rug tutorials suggest sc for sturdiness but hdc is a popular compromise. 

D — Introducing new colors / strips

• When a color/strip ends, join the next strip by overlapping and sewing, or use a slip-knot join and begin crocheting with the new strip — then immediately crochet over the tail for a few stitches to secure. Keep joins on the underside where possible.

E — Continue rounds to desired diameter

• Keep repeating steady rounds (with increases only where needed) until your rug reaches the diameter you want. Measure often. For example: after ~10–12 rounds (sc increases every round) you’ll have a modest mat; more rounds produce a larger rug. Many scrap rugs reach 60–100 cm requiring many rounds.

F — Edge & finish

1. Work 1–2 rounds of even sc (no increases) to create a neat border.

2. Optional decorative edge: shells, picots, or reverse single crochet (crab stitch) for extra finish.

3. Fasten off, weave in ends thoroughly — bulky rugs need strong weaving so ends don’t pop out.

G — Backing (optional, recommended for floor rugs)

• For rugs that will be on slippery floors or heavy foot traffic, sew on a non-slip rug pad or glue a pre-cut rug gripper to the back. Alternately stitch a cotton canvas backing for long-term durability.

Sample stitch-count table (single-crochet start — approximate)

Round	Pattern example	Total sts (approx)
1	6 sc in magic ring	6
2	inc in each st (2 in each)	12
3	sc, inc repeat	18
4	sc x2, inc repeat	24
5	sc x3, inc repeat	30
6	sc x4, inc repeat	36
…	continue pattern	6 × round number

(If you use hdc or dc, treat increases the same way but counts will feel “bigger” — measure and adjust.)

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Troubleshooting — common issues & fixes

• Rug cups up (bowl shape): you didn’t add enough increases. Add an extra increase round evenly spaced.

• Rug ruffles (wavy edge): too many increases — skip an increase round or work a round without increases.

• Uneven joins / visible seams: weave in joins on the wrong side, or stagger joins so they don’t line up in the same place.

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Tips from Pamela’s style + rag-rug practice

• Work tight enough tension that the rug is sturdy but not so tight your hands hurt — scrap rugs use thicker material so a comfortably firm tension is ideal.

• Use a stitch marker every 2–3 rounds to keep track of the start of round (especially if working in joined rounds).

• Try a color plan: concentric rings, random scraps, or repeating stripes produce very different looks — plan ahead if you want a balanced color layout.

Full Video Tutorial: 

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